In Deep Shit !

In Deep Shit @ Fes Tannery, Morocco  

Fez, the third largest city in Morocco, is home to the world’s oldest tanneries. These tanneries still follow the same techniques that were used during the 11th Century for converting hide into leather, resulting in attracting thousands of tourists every year from all over the world, who want to witness this centuries old procedure. 

The tanneries are one of the most colourful sites in this “Land of Contrasts”, consisting of hundreds of stone vessels which are filled with natural dyes resembling no less than a well laid tray of watercolors – red (poppy flowers), blue (indigo), green (mint), yellow (saffron), orange (henna), brown (wood) and black. Being a lover of colours and life, I detested the idea of visiting the tanneries just after Eid, when most of the workers were still on their fortnight long vacation, leaving the tanneries pale and motionless. But it was today or never, so I chose the former. 

When the work is in full swing, each of these stone vessels are filled up with different colour dyes (red, blue, green, orange, yellow, black etc). All we saw were shades of mustard and brown, given that most tanners were on leave owing to Eid.

Given that it was my first visit to a tannery, I requested one of the workers to walk me through the process, which he happily did. He explained, "tanneries basically process skins of animals and convert them into leather, which is used for making products such as bags, jackets, shoes, belts, wallets, furniture etc". But it wasn't as straightforward, unsoiled and uncomplicated as it sounds. So for all who love those expensive leather products, I thought of giving you an insight of the entire procedure myself. 

Animal skins (including camels, sheep, cows and goats etc) are first soaked for 2 to 3 days in a mixture of water, cow urine, salt and quicklime to help remove flesh and the still remaining tough hair. Yes you read it right - Cow Urine! This mixture helps in softening the hide. Once the hide becomes a bit soft, the tanners scrap away the hair and flesh. The hide is again soaked, this time in a concoction of water and pigeon droppings (contains high amount of ammonia), which further makes the skin malleable. 

Post dipping the hides in water and pigeon droppings, its now the tanners turn to get their feet dirty. The tanners, get into the stone vessels filled with this mixture and knead the hides with their bare feet to achieve the desired softness. 

Stench of decomposing flesh, cow urine and pigeon droppings filled the air, making it unbearable for me to stand there any-longer. One of the tanner had been closely observing my unpleasant facial expressions and efforts to block the stink by closing my nostrils with hands. He walked up and gave me some fresh mint leaves to smell to counter the malodour. 

While I was a bit relieved, this young guy in his early twenties before returning to his job, exclaimed "I know its difficult to breath here, but this gets my daily bread!" and proudly folded his trousers up to the thighs and jumped into one of the stone vessel filled waist deep with pigeon shit and started kneading the hides. I looked at him silently. Never in life I felt so small, and surely his views were much wider than mine! 

Man washes the hides before drying them under the sun

Once the hides attain the desired softness, they are dipped in dyes and dried under the sun. The leather is now ready to be sold to the craftsmen who convert them into those luxurious accessories.

Hundreds of hide dry in the sun, ready to be sold to craftsmen for making the final products.

All images © Pooja Kumar, 2014, email: poojakumar06@gmail.com